Dining Out: Country Squire Carry Out (Kokomo, IN)

 Exterior: 3/5

The restaurant is in a bland little storefront with a bland little sign. A lot of the fixtures seem like they might be original to the building, which dates back to 1965. Look, though: they don't need to be pretty to attract folks to come in. The reputation this chicken has in the town keeps the throngs coming. 

Ambiance: n/a

The only thing you notice while you're waiting to pick up from here (and you have to pick up because they don't do delivery) is the line of people in between you and your broasted reward.

Variety: 4/5 

For a fatty fried food joint this place manages to work a lot of neat accents into its menu. The chicken is the main attraction, of course, but they also do fried pork, shrimp, and perch. (I've had the perch in the past and really enjoyed it.) The sides are a few variations on potatoes, but you can also get slaw, baked beans, and a really nice marinated green bean salad. 

Quality: 5/5 

This is where Country Squire truly rocks out - it knows its lane and it drives expertly in those lines. To be clear, their schtick is that they broast their food, which is a form of frying that involves pressure cooking in a special machine (a broaster). The result is wonderfully crisp on the outside and moist and soothing on the inside. The first bite you take after you open the box of chicken is a whole experience - indescribable but unforgettable. And the accents are great too. The potato wedges are comically huge but all the more memorable for that, and the green bean salad is worth dreaming about. 

Kid Friendly: 4/5

Breaded chicken is usually a safe bet with my four-year-old, but the sides can be a hard sell. I don't think the kids appreciate the amazing quality they're getting here, but they'll put it in their face and sometimes that's all that matters. Bonus points that you get to eat this in the comfort of your own home.

Would Eat Again?: Green Light

Absolutely. I actually get cravings for Country Squire - like, I find myself thinking about the magic of that first bite of chicken and wanting the experience again. (Same with the green bean salad.) Definitely a go-to when I don't have time to cook and sometimes even when I do. I don't like fried chicken, but broasted chicken keeps me coming back for more every time.