Dining Out: Windmill Grill (Kokomo, IN)

 

Honestly I think my favorite thing about this restaurant is the ceiling. That isn't an insult. It's a cool-ass ceiling.

Exterior: 4/5

Photo from the Windmill Grill Facebook page

Windmill Grill is up toward the North End of Kokomo, convenient to the Good Kroger and the strip mall that has a Great Clips and a UPS store and there's like a CVS and a Walgreens close by. In short, if you live on the north side of town, you're going to find yourself in the Windmill Grill area. The exterior of the restaurant looks really nice and has a color scheme that reflects its mission to offer a pleasant farm-to-table vibe. It has the disadvantage of being really close to Dixon Road, which is busy, and because its lot is small the parking lot is a little tricky to navigate. But overall the building is a great exercise in doing what you can with what you have. 

Ambience: 4/5

Country/Cowboy Accents in the Decor

The Return of Wood Paneling

Again, per the farm-to-table mission of the restaurant, they've creating a rustic-and-comfortable-but-kind-of-fancy vibe inside. The walls are wood paneling that matches the tables and chairs. The little bits of kitsch on the walls are the kind of thing your grandma would have in her house if she wanted to express that she was into cowboy stuff. I don't want you to think I'm being snotty about that, though, because it's a deliberate choice that meshes well with the clientele of the restaurant. Most of the folks there appeared to be over 50. (I should note that I was there to celebrate my aunt's birthday. She was turning 81.) There was also a big long table filled with people from the county sheriff's office, so they're open to gatherings and people definitely take them up on the opportunity. We went for dinner on a Monday and the place was bustling the whole time we were there.

Variety: 3/5

Steak & Shrimp

Plain Flame Grilled Chicken

Hoosier Pork Chops with Tater Tots and Coleslaw

The Windmill Grill menu is heavy on meats-with-sides and sandwiches. Given what they're doing with sourcing their food, that makes sense. If you're not feeling meaty there's a small selection of pasta dishes and some nice salads. Their dessert selection is basic stuff, but there are at least a few options there. Windmill Grill also does breakfast in the morning featuring staples like pancakes, waffles, and eggs. One of the nice things about eating here is that they're ok with special orders: My aunt is a picky eater, but they didn't bat an eye when she gave her specifications she wanted for her meal. I saw them being similarly accommodating with other customers.  

Quality: 3/5

Rancher's Cut Sirloin with Mashed Potatoes and Steak Fries

Indiana BBQ Pulled Pork Sandwich with Coleslaw

When I think of farm-to-table food I expect to enjoy more vivid flavors in the food than I would get from restaurants that get things from major food distributors. Unfortunately that's not the experience I've had when I've eaten at Windmill Grill. On this trip my husband and I both got steak and we found our meat bland and unevenly cooked. Although we weren't happy with this, some of my older family members, who prefer their food on the unalarming side, were quite happy with the plainness of what they were eating. So I'd say that things here were well suited for the crowd the restaurant normally seems to be serving. I did really dig the yeast rolls that came with the meat-and-sides meals. They were warm and fluffy and delicious.

Kid-Friendly: 4/5

OG Looney Toons cartoons on TV

Kids' Mini Corn Dogs and Steak Fries

I was especially self-conscious about my kids' behavior on this trip since the table next to us was a whole bunch of people in sheriff's uniforms. My 5YO held it together, though, in part because of the old-timey Looney Toons cartoons playing on one of the TVs that he could see. (I was more entertained with the trivia questions on a different screen.) He also enjoyed his mini corn dogs and big ol' steak fries. The 1YO was happy with the coloring sheet on the kids' menu and seemed content with her mac and cheese, although she was definitely mainly in the game for her own big ol' steak fries. Since the place was crowded it took a while for our food to arrive, but we were able to come up with enough distractions to avoid kiddo rampages.

Would Eat Again?: Yellow Light

I've eaten at Windmill Grill periodically over the years because it was the only restaurant in town where my Grandpa would eat and now it's the only restaurant where my aunt will eat. I admire their brand loyalty. I've never had an experience here that left me hungry or angry, but I've also never been enraptured with the place. I would say that I hope to see some more creative entrees on their menu in the future, but honestly creative foodie food isn't their niche. They're doing quite well with what they offer. Their catering and family meals seem to be popular as well, so I think it's safe to say that their position in the Kokomo restaurant scene is solid and safe.