Dining Out: Taku Japanese Steakhouse (Kokomo, IN)

I remember that when Taku first opened my reaction was "Sushi? In Kokomo? And it's FANCY?"  

 

Exterior: 4/5

View from the far side of the parking lot because this place is popular and there were no spaces close-up

A regional chain with another store in Columbus, Taku occupies a sizeable space in what used to be the Kokomo Mall (RIP Elder Beerman and Phar-Mor). It's visible from 931 and easily accessible from Boulevard. Even though some of the other storefronts in the strip are still empty, the location is convenient to stuff like the movie theater so it's still pretty bustling. They've done what they can with their facade - the signage is cool and easy to read. 

Ambience: 5/5

Side seating area

Bar

Sushi bar

Neat light fixtures

Taku is decorated to the nines (and not in a tacky way). The interior is clean and bright and although there are multiple visually arresting fixtures around nothing is gaudy and they all meld together into a cohesive mood. I've never been in Taku and not seen a crowd, even on a weeknight, but the dining-side seating is spaced out well and you don't feel cramped no matter how big the crowd. If you're coming for the hibachi show, there's lots of seating in that part of the restaurant too. I always feel relaxed at this place thanks to the vibe.

Variety: 4/5

Chicken Teriyaki

Crab Rangoon

Pad Thai

The Taku menu is, in a word, sizeable. Their sushi list is extensive, and that's the reason I go there. On this occasion, though, I was dining with sushi-averse people, and everyone found something that made them happy. There's tempura, teriyaki, udon, ramen, a small selection of Thai staples, and a heck of a signature cocktail list. They stay within their idiom, i.e. this isn't a place where you can get chicken strips and avoid eating Unfamiliar Cuisine. Within that idiom? They've got a ton going on.

Quality: 4/5

Mango Tango Roll and Salmon Roe Sushi 

Seaweed Salad

First of all I need to give props to Taku for consistently beautiful presentation. The food always looks gorgeous when it comes out, particularly the plates of sushi. On the night we went I was madly in love with my sushi roll - it was both pretty and tasty. My salmon roe was a little saltier than I expected and my seaweed salad didn't have a ton of bounce in its step, but, like, that's kind of what you get eating stuff from the ocean in a landlocked state. Everyone at my table enjoyed their food, commenting that the sauce on the Chicken Teriyaki was light but flavorful and the Pad Thai was interesting without being knock-your-socks off spicy. 

Kid-Friendly: 4/5

Happy Kid with a Happy Puppy

I was leery of bringing my 2YO in here, mostly because it's pretty and bright and I didn't want her to trash things. The staff were amazing with her, though - as soon as we sat down they gave her a balloon doggie and she adored that thing. She definitely got stuff on the floor, but nobody seemed upset. Unless you're eating on the hibachi side (which kids consistently seem to think is tons of fun), there's not a separate kids menu. Much like the adults, picky children will have to broaden their horizons. But my kid ended up being quite happy with a plate of crab rangoons and some samples of Grandma's chicken teriyaki.

Would Eat Again?: Green Light

We lived in South Dakota for nine years before moving to Kokomo, and every time we came here to visit my parents we would make a point of going to Taku if we could. We don't go there much now because it's... well it's expensive. (This trip was a birthday present from my parents.) But for the overall dining experience you really do get a lot for your money. When I win the lottery I'll be at Taku like once a week. In the meantime, I'll just look forward to eating there as a treat when I can.