Dining Out: El Arriero (Kokomo, IN)

Spiffy napkin rings!

 

Exterior: 4/5

Special guest star The Sun

I don't know exactly how long El Arriero has been in Kokomo, but I don't remember it ever NOT being there. Its position on Lafountain makes it easily accessible to folks on the South Side. The only disadvantage to its location is that it doesn't stand out much, and if you're not concentrating carefully it's super-easy to drive right by it. But when you turn into the parking lot you find an eye-catching building that's well-maintained. The parking lot isn't huge but if you go when it's not packed that's not a problem at all.

Ambience: 4/5

El Beisbol

Translated to English, an "Arriero" is someone who rides a pack mule. True to the name, the theming of the restaurant feels a little more mountain-Mexico than color-bomb coastal-Mexico. The decor is classy and subdued with warm, pleasant hues and minimalist rustic decorations. There's a smaller dining area when you walk in and then a long, narrow section off to the left. Those compartments make you feel like you have your own little corner of the restaurant and keep the hubbub to a minimum. The tables are a little close together in spots and a little worn, but everything is accessible and clean.

Variety: 3/5

Chips and Salsa

Burrito Gigante 

There isn't much on the El Arriero menu that says "Innovative and Exciting." I do applaud them for having a wider variety of fish and soup options than the average neighborhood Tex Mex joint, though, and a large array of tequila shots you can try. If I hadn't been eating with teetotallers I would have tried the Jamaica Margarita, because that sounds lit. When you get your chips and salsa here they give you a mild one and a spicy one, which was thoughtful. (The mild one is pretty much just straight tomato with no seasoning.) They also do an especially gigantic signature huge burrito, pictured, above, which is a point of distinction in a town where people want quantity for their money.

Quality: 3/5

Loaded Quesadilla

The food at El Arriero is fine. My quesadilla was salty for my taste and the rice that came with it was bland, but neither of those small annoyances made me stop eating them. Everyone else I was dining with seemed content to eat their food. In short, the culinary experience was unremarkable but not off-putting.

Kid-Friendly: 4/5

Kid Eating a Kids' Quesadilla and Fries

My kids were not in spectacular moods on this trip, which made the close proximity of our table to other diners a little uncomfortable. They seemed to like the food just fine, and our very picky 5YO was willing to branch out from chicken fingers and try a quesadilla, which he enjoyed. I stole one of his fries and was not impressed, but c'est la French fries - he didn't seem bothered. There were other kids around, so this seemed like a comfortable spot for families.

Would Eat Again?: Yellow Light

I can't think of a good reason to go back to El Arriero, but I also can't think of a good reason NOT to go back. Like, it was food. The kids actually ate stuff. The service was fast. It just didn't really scratch the itch for a special dining-out experience. But the longevity of the restaurant shows that it has a loyal following, so power to the rider of mules.